The fashion and textile industry is known as one of the largest polluters worldwide

The multi-trillion-dollar fashion and textile industry is known as one of the largest polluters worldwide. It is therefore no surprise that green marketing claims are facing increased scrutiny.

In 2022, fashion giant H&M was sued for allegations of greenwashing. A year later, Nike was also hit with a lawsuit over misleading sustainability marketing. Both lawsuits were later dropped or dismissed, but not before generating headlines worldwide.

According to Dr. Saniyat Islam, a senior lecturer in Fashion Enterprise and Sustainable Innovation at RMIT University, a common greenwashing tactic employed by fashion brands is the use of vague language.

“Brands may use terms like “green”, “eco-friendly”, or “natural” without providing any clear definition or evidence of what these terms mean,” he said.

“Some brands may highlight one small, environmentally friendly aspect of their product while ignoring the larger environmental impact. For example, a brand might advertise that their packaging or swing tag is recyclable, but the product itself is not eco-friendly.”

RMIT University Vietnam researcher Associate Professor Rajkishore Nayak explained that greenwashing in fashion can happen at all stages, from sourcing raw materials to manufacturing, packaging, distribution and retail – all the way until the end-of-life stage of a product.

An example related to the end-of-life stage is fashion items made from recycled PET bottles. As explained by Greenwash.com, a website dedicated to exposing greenwashing tactics used by big brands, the process of transforming bottles into fashion items is not a sustainable solution. If the plastic had remained as a bottle, it could have been recycled or reused multiple times. Once the plastic is converted into fibre, it cannot be recycled further and will eventually end up in landfill or be incinerated.

Dr Carol Tan, Program Manager of the Master of Fashion (Entrepreneurship) at RMIT University, warned that greenwashing can mislead consumers who are trying to make environmentally friendly choices. It can be difficult for them to distinguish between products that are genuinely sustainable and those that are simply marketed as such.

Dr. Carol Tan shared six key recommendations for fashion companies to impactfully decrease their environmental footprint.

Reduce overproduction: Fashion businesses need to reduce overproduction, as unsold items often ending up in landfill. Brands can use data-driven forecasting to better predict demand. Ideally, they should adopt a made-to-order model, where items are only produced when a customer places an order.

Improve material sourcing: They should improve material sourcing and switch to more sustainable materials, such as plant-based fibres and regenerative cellulose. They also need to ensure that their materials are sourced ethically, with fair pay and conditions for workers.

Implement circular business practices: All fashion businesses should attempt to implement circular business practices, which involves designing products with longevity, and creating systems for repair, resale, and recycling options (where possible). 

Be more transparent: Fashion brands need to be more transparent about their supply chains and manufacturing processes, allowing consumers to make more informed choices.

Invest in research and development: Investing in research and development to find new and more sustainable ways of producing clothing can be extremely beneficial. This could include new colouration techniques that use less water or have less impact on the environment.

Educate consumers: Finally, fashion businesses need to educate consumers about the environmental impact of their purchases, and how to care for their clothes in a way that extends their lifespan and reduces their environmental footprint.